As you may have read I went surfing a few days ago. I can say I definitely came back with a story or two. First, the more awkward of the two stories: I have probably one of the worst sunburns I’ve ever experienced. How bad? Let me put it this way. Three days after my one lesson, I’m finally able to walk somewhat normally. Below is a picture of my back. My legs look much worse, disgustingly so.
It is completely my fault, too. My instructor asked if I had put on sunscreen before we went in. I had, just not on my legs. & I didn’t reapply when we took a break halfway through my two-hour session. Stupid, stupid, stupid me.
With that said, the misery of being unable to walk properly or wear anything heavier than yoga pants or Umbros is evenly weighed by the experience of riding a wave. I haven’t totally gotten the basics down, but those two hours were enough to figure out how to stay on the board, how to distribute my weight properly, how to paddle & when to take your moment to stand up on the board. I may not be a fast learner but I am a determined one & I came pretty close to riding a wave standing up. I rode in a few on my knees & it was just a taste of what could be.
I had planned on have a lesson three days in a row, but my spectacular burn killed that plan pretty quickly. I had to call the head instructor & tell him I wouldn’t be taking another lesson until the burn healed. I was too embarrassed to tell him just how bad it was, but he simply told me to call him when I was ready. Before I got off the phone, he told me to keep practicing my pop ups, the maneuver that gets you standing on the board. I said I would & as soon as my legs bend properly again, I plan on practicing like crazy. There is another month left in summer after all.
Just don’t tell my husband. He’s afraid I’m getting reckless in my middle age. 🙂